Before any rides happen, you are going to need a bike and a few other basic accessories. If you decide to buy new, visit your local bike shop. There are plenty of online suppliers as well as direct to consumer manufacturers; however, starting a relationship with a local bike shop will typically mean you have an ally when it comes to things like warranty repair or advising you on periodic maintenance.

Velorangutan offers an excellent and FREE demo program with bikes from Yeti, Ibis, Revel, and Orbea.

Specialized Austin offers a demo program at Reveille Peak Ranch.

Try to push the limit of what you can afford as much as you can, even if you need to wait a little longer. Consider a used bike which may be a great bargain. The difference a few hundred dollars can make when you are already spending thousands of dollars is huge. Better components can make a difference when it comes to maintenance intervals or how much abuse they can take. Central Texas has a ton of rock gardens  that will challenge you and your equipment. That said, a solid bike can be had for under $2000 for hardtail, and $3500 for full suspension. Avoid Wal-Mart bikes; the components will not withstand the rigors of some of the trail systems around Central Texas and chances are good that there was not a lot of care involved in the assembly.

At least 120mm of suspension travel would be best. There are plenty of trails here that can push even the biggest bikes, and I am riding a Ripmo AF with 160mm of travel. It comes down to personal preference. A 120mm down country bike is probably perfect, but if you plan to visit Spider Mountain a lot, or want to seek the gnar, then go with something >150mm. A hardtail is fine, but full suspension is ideal.

The challenge of riding technical terrain or long distances becomes needlessly large if you are not on a bike that fits you. If you can afford it, try to get a proper fit done. Comfort is critical and it’s best not to skimp here. At the very least, there are some DIY techniques to help you get very close.

Get the best helmet you can afford. If you do need to save up, don’t ride until you have one, it’s that simple. If you intend to race or ride in areas with rock gardens or steep downhill terrain it may be appropriate to buy a full-face helmet which adds protection for your jaw and face. Some bike parks require a “full DH” (downhill) rated helmet which means that it complies to ASTM standard F1952.

For Bike Park days I wear the Troy Lee Designs Stage. My primary helmet is the Bell Super Air R.

A good pair of cycling specific glasses will help you avoid potentially getting your eyeball gouged out by a pokey stick . Look for a pair that is not too dark or else you will have trouble seeing in the trees. Interchangeable lenses are great if you plan to do some night riding and want to swap in clear lenses. My favorite is actually these cheap X-Tiger brand on Amazon.

Crashes are inevitable and that is why we always wear a helmet. But did you know you don’t always have to sacrifice your elbows and knees to the dirt gods? Just wear some pads. Some are even armored with a hard shell which is ideal for DH racing in rocky terrain. Knee pads sometimes also have integrated shin guards to protect against pedal bite.

The primary function of riding gloves is to maintain grip on the handlebar when you get all sweaty. The more your grips feel like a wet bar of soap, the tighter you are going to need to hold on, and then you are going to get fatigued quickly, or even worse, crash. The secondary function of gloves is to protect your skin should you meet the ground. Even though it is hardly advisable, many of us instinctively put our hands out when we crash, and this is a good way to lose some epidermis. Some gloves even have knuckle protection built in for those of us who attempt to fist fight at least one tree per ride. Finally, in the winter you may want gloves that have an insulating or waterproof layer. My favorite gloves - I call them my tree punching gloves - are the Fox Defend D30.

Critical for night riding or riding on the road. A good handlebar light of 1000 lumens or more, a helmet light of 600 lumens or more, and a bright red tail light are what you need. If I had to pick between a helmet and a bar light I would go with the helmet light since it can be aimed where you need it without turning the handlebars. My favorite headlights are the Outbound Evo DH package.

Racing downhill or enduro means you might be encountering tall boulders or super chunky rock gardens which threaten to break your spine or ribs or sternum, or damage internal organs. That’s not hyperbole. A good chest protector / torso armor will protect your vital bits when things get seriously rowdy. I like the Leatt AirFit Hybrid which includes elbow pads and keeps everything in place nicely.

A neck brace protects against hyperextension of the neck which can happen when you land on your head. I wear a Leatt Neck Brace 3.5

Some DH and enduro racers wear a rubber bite guard to protect from chipped or broken teeth should you have a heavy crash. Something similar to this.

This is something that you might not immediately think about, but it’s a good way to increase safety for yourself and other trail users, particularly when going around a blind corner (which you should also slow down for). The other benefit is being able to let slower trail users know you are behind them. There are a few different options to pick from, like the TimberBell which rings constantly (its an on or off bell) or a more classic choice which rings each time you pull the lever. The bell I am running at the moment is this cheapo one off Amazon.

Cool, moisture wicking shirts custom made for riding are not required at all, but definitely make life more pleasant. Three quarter or full sleeve options offer protection from the sun in summer and a little protection from abrasion. Some jerseys have zip pockets for keys, or pockets on the tail for water bottles. An extended tail helps keep your backside covered when you are in attack position. I like Pearl Izumi for jerseys, and any jersey that reps my local bike shop! A low cost option like this or this can be had at Academy.

Padded form fitting shorts designed to absorb sweat for an extended period of time, helping you avoid any chafing or saddle sores. You can supplement the chamois with Chamois Butt’r or similar to help reduce friction. I like Pearl Izumi and The Black Bibs for liner shorts or bibs…

Overalls with a padded chamois similar to liner shorts. The shoulder straps significantly help keep the chamois in one spot which reduces friction and increases comfort on extended rides. The downside is that going to the bathroom can become a chore.

Baggies are typically worn over a liner or bib overalls and provide pockets for gear, extra protection from abrasion and the elements, and a little more style… unless form fitting is your look. Zoic Ether is the perfect short for a good price.

Unlike a lot of places, we get to ride in the winter in central Texas, but it is still cold, so pants help. No need to get fancy and break the bank. Get these or these at academy.

Moisture wicking socks are practically essential. I like Swiftwick for summer socks and Smartwool for winter.

Purpose built riding shoes are the way to go. The have tougher, stiffer, and grippier rubber soles to keep your feet in one place on your flat pedals, and some have an armored toe box to protect from rock strikes. If you ride clipless, then you dedicated shoes are required. My favorite shoes for flat pedals are the Five Ten Freerider Pro.

There are a ton of choices to pick from depending on your budget and vehicle. If you have the option, hitch racks will be more secure than racks that use straps or suction cups. Also consider how much your bike costs; does it make sense to trust it to a cheap rack? Like a helmet, consider getting the best one you can afford. My personal reccommedation is the 1Up Rack. This is what I use, and I consistently hear positive feedback from everyone who owns one. It’s damn near indestructable, and loading the bike is a breeze.

There is no “best solution” here. I change how I carry water based on ride length and which bike I am on. If you have a full suspension MTB you are likely going to be limited by the number and size of bottles you can carry on the frame. A pack is typically needed in this case. There are different styles and sizes to choose, from traditional backpack style, to hip packs.

Speaking of packs, the reservoir does not need to be cleaned every single ride; wash the mouthpiece and throw the reservoir in the freezer between rides! Then just do a quick rinse when you refill. When it is time to deep clean, you can use Efferdent as an alternative to the expensive tabs that Camelbak sell to clean the reservoir.

We probably don’t want to listen to your music on a ride and typical headphones are a good way to reduce your overall situational awareness.

Bone conduction headphones are the way to go if you absolutely must have trail tunes or take calls on the ride.

Make sure you get one that fits your valve style (Presta or Schrader)

You need these in case you need to change a tube or make a sidewall repair, or if you want to get wild and change your own tires out. Tire levers are used to separate the bead from the rim and pull the sidewall over the lip of the rim. You can find them at your local bike shop.

A tool like this is tiny and includes rubber “bacon” strips which help plug punctures on tubeless setups so the sealant can do its job.

Not essential, unless you are running tubes, or have not topped up your sealant in a while, or you don’t have tubeless plugs.

This is for all you folks who are stubborn and still have a tube in that tire (or unfortunately can’t convert to tubeless).

A good patch kit will include a few patches of varying size, a chunk of sandpaper, and rubber cement. Be sure to check occasionally that the cement has not dried up. Self-adhesive patches are available, and although they do not work as well, it is smart to have a few in your kit just in case that tube of glue is dry.

A proper multi tool will include various size hex wrenches, screwdrivers, torx bits, and sometimes a…

Your multi tool may include this. It is used to break and reassemble the links in a chain.

A quick link is a part, but also could be thought of as a substitute for a chain breaker chain links/pins. Make sure you buy the correct link for chain as they are specific to how many gears you have.

• Adjustable wrenches

• Screwdrivers

• Pliers and needle nose pliers

• Open end metric wrenches

• Metric hex wrenches

• Torque Wrench(es)

• Hammer

• Files

• Apron

• Scrub brushes

• Rags

Unless you want to stand around all day using your trail pump this is a much more effective way of getting air into your tires, and some have a pressure gauge built in.

You are probably going to need a way to adjust the pressure in your suspension to suit your weight and riding style. It is unlikely that a tire pump or an air compressor can produce high enough pressures for most suspension (many consumer compressors are rated at 120psi max) and using an air compressor is risking damage to the relatively tiny air chamber in your shock or fork. The only tool you should be using is a shock pump.

Even if you don’t plan to replace your own chain, you can use this tool to figure out when its time to have it done.

• Chain lube, for both dry and wet conditions.

• Grease

• Friction paste

• Rubbing alcohol

• Bike wash

• Drivetrain cleaner